Shallots are rewarding to grow because one planted bulb division can multiply into a cluster of new bulbs. The keys to a good harvest are choosing the right planting time for your climate, giving plants room to form bulbs, and curing them thoroughly before storage. Think of it as setting up a slow, steady garden rhythm: healthy roots first, sturdy tops next, and a dry, papery harvest at the finish.
1. Choose a sunny site with well-drained soil
Shallots grow best in full sun and fertile soil that holds moisture without staying waterlogged. Their roots are shallow, so loose soil helps them establish and makes it easier to lift the harvest later. If your garden soil is heavy or drains poorly, consider a raised bed or raised row.
Before planting, loosen the soil and work in a modest amount of well-finished compost if needed. Avoid overdoing nitrogen-rich amendments: too much can encourage leafy growth when your goal is well-formed bulbs. A soil test can help you decide whether the bed needs additional nutrients.
Because shallots belong to the allium family, it’s sensible to rotate them away from beds that recently held onions, garlic, leeks, or shallots when space allows. If you’re planning several crops across the seasons, Farmer Flints’ seasonal planting calendar can help you map out the timing.
2. Decide whether to plant bulbs or seed
Most home gardeners plant shallots as bulb sets. Small, dormant bulbs that are separated into individual divisions before planting. Each division can grow into a new bulb or cluster. Choose firm, healthy sets without soft spots, mold, or damaged bases.
Shallots can also be grown from seed. Seed-grown plants are generally slower to establish, and they tend to form individual bulbs rather than the same kind of cluster you may get from a planted bulb division. Follow the seed packet for sowing depth and spacing, since varieties and growing directions differ.
For a straightforward first crop, bulb sets are usually the simpler route. The University of Arkansas System Division of Agriculture’s shallot guide describes planting individual bulbs from a separated clump. Don’t confuse a shallot division with a garlic clove: the planting material looks similar, but it comes from a shallot bulb.
3. Plant in fall or spring, depending on your winter
Shallots are cool-season plants, and both fall and spring planting can work. In regions with winters mild enough for shallots to overwinter, gardeners often plant bulb sets in fall so they can establish roots before cold weather and resume growth in spring. Plant early enough for rooting, but avoid planting so early that plants put on a lot of tender top growth before winter.
In colder regions, fall planting can expose bulbs to freezing, frost heaving, or winter damage. A layer of mulch or a protective row cover may help, but spring planting is often the more dependable option. Plant as soon as the soil is workable in early to mid-spring.
Local conditions matter more than a calendar date. The Utah State University Extension shallot guide gives guidance for both spring and fall planting, including added protection for fall-planted bulbs in colder zones. For your own garden, consider winter severity, soil drainage, and the planting instructions for your variety.
4. Plant at the right depth and spacing
Before planting, gently separate a bulb cluster into individual divisions. Set each one with its root plate down and pointed growing end up. Cover it with about 1–2 inches of soil, adjusting for the local recommendation and your soil conditions.
For bulb sets, a practical starting point is:
- 3–6 inches between divisions
- 12–18 inches between rows
Closer spacing tends to produce smaller, more individual bulbs. More room can encourage larger clusters, though the final size also depends on variety, weather, soil, and care. If you’re growing shallots mainly for green tops, closer spacing is fine. For larger storage bulbs, don’t crowd the plants.
Keep the bed evenly moist while plants establish. After that, water during dry spells, aiming to moisten the root zone without leaving the soil soggy. Mulch can help conserve moisture and suppress weeds, but keep the shallot bed weed-free: small, slow-growing shallot plants compete poorly with vigorous weeds. Cultivate carefully and shallowly to avoid disturbing their roots.
5. Support steady growth through the season
Give shallots a sunny place and consistent care. If rain is scarce, water regularly while the plants are growing and bulbs are forming. Overwatering, especially in poorly drained soil, can encourage rot, so let the bed’s drainage guide your routine.
Check plants regularly for yellowing, damaged leaves, or bulbs that feel soft. Good spacing improves airflow, while crop rotation and clean planting material help reduce some disease risks. If you’re planning neighboring crops, use a practical layout rather than assuming every companion-planting pairing is proven; Farmer Flints’ vegetable companion planting chart can be a starting point for garden planning.
When the bulbs begin to mature, ease off watering. As with onions, allowing the soil and bulbs to dry down before harvest helps set up a better cure. If you’re also growing onions in a small space, see Farmer Flints’ guide to growing onions in containers for container-specific tips.
6. Harvest when the tops begin to fall
Shallots are ready to lift when most of the tops have yellowed or fallen over and the bulbs have developed firm, colored skins. Oregon State University Extension’s Winter Vegetable Production guide notes that shallots are harvested when they have hard, richly colored skins and are around 1–2 inches in diameter. Variety and growing conditions can affect size, so use the tops and skin as well as bulb size to judge maturity.
Loosen the soil with a hand fork and lift the clusters gently. Avoid pulling hard on the leaves or bruising the bulbs; damage can shorten storage life. Brush away loose soil, but don’t wash the bulbs. If some are soft, cut, or bruised, set those aside to use first rather than putting them into long-term storage.
7. Cure thoroughly before storing
Curing is the drying period that toughens the outer skins and dries the necks. Spread the harvested shallots in a single layer in a dry, shaded, well-ventilated place. A covered porch, airy shed, or sheltered rack can work if the bulbs are protected from rain and direct sun. If harvest weather is wet, cure them indoors with good airflow.
Leave the tops attached while the bulbs dry. Depending on conditions, curing may take about one to two weeks or longer. Rather than relying only on a fixed number of days, look for dry leaves and necks, firm bulbs, and papery outer skins. The Utah State University Extension guide recommends curing shallots until the bulbs and leaves are completely dry and the skins are papery.
Store cured bulbs in a cool, dry, airy place
Once the tops and necks are fully dry, trim the leaves and roots. Discard any damaged or soft bulbs, then place sound shallots in a mesh bag, ventilated basket, or another breathable container. Keep them in a cool, dry, dark place with good airflow, and check occasionally for softening or decay. Don’t seal them in a plastic bag, where trapped moisture can spoil the crop.
Storage results vary by variety and curing conditions. Some shallots keep longer than others, so use any bulbs showing early deterioration first. Save only firm, healthy bulbs for replanting, and keep those separate from the bulbs you plan to use.
Growing shallots is a small exercise in patience: plant carefully, keep weeds from stealing their share, then give the harvest time to dry before storing it. When you follow that sequence, the bed can reward you with clusters of flavorful bulbs ready for the months ahead. Start with a few rows, take notes on what works in your climate, and let each season sharpen your gardening instincts.